As you step inside the cozy confinesof the hacienda–style Paloma BlancaMexican Cuisine, 5800 Broadway inAlamo Heights, the burning glow fromthe fireplace invites you to plop downon one of the over–sized, leather sofasand make yourself right at home. Whileyou’re at it, you might even want toorder a shot of Don Julio 1942 to sipor one of the restaurant’s top shelfmargaritas while waiting for friends tojoin you for dinner.
The lamps, paintings and knickknacksevoke the feeling that you have cometo a friend’s house to break bread, andthat’s exactly what the staff at PalomaBlanca wants you to experience.
“We treat people like we wouldanyone who is coming to our house forlunch or dinner, and we’re going to takegood care of them,” says Nelly MendozaOlsen, general manager and vicepresident. “We’re all about customerservice.”
As the hostess leads you to your table,you have a choice of sitting inside theopen air dining room or – if the weatheris pleasant which it usually is year–roundin the Alamo City – you can sit on thepatio and enjoy the cascading noise ofthe water fountain. Open the menu andyour eyes will dart from corner to cornerbecause there are so many savory dishesto choose.
For starters, there’s ceviche del mar:a diced, fresh cooked fish with cilantro,onion and tomato in a lime juice andolive oil–based marinade; tacos al pastor:three taquitos with marinated pork andpineapple garnished with fresh cilantro,onion, pineapple and lime wedges; andqueso fundido: chorizo and meltedqueso Monterrey. If you prefer to skipthe antojitos, you can select one of themany ensaladas or sopas.
(As someone who has visited PalomaBlanca frequently for dinner with friendsor on a Sunday afternoon, this writercan never refuse a cup of the cremalÃÂgera poblana, a savory light cream ofchile poblano mixed with golden cornand garnished with cilantro and sourcream.)
If it’s enchiladas you’re in the moodfor, the enchiladas verdes, two cheese orchicken enchiladas covered with a tangytomatillo sauce; and the enchiladasdivorciados, two chicken enchiladas,one covered with a salsa verde and theother with a salsa ranchera are popularfavorites.
And then there’s a variety ofchiles rellenos, platos tradicionales,especialidades and especialidades depollo, not to mention postres, amongthem the pastel de tres leches. (For thiswriter, it’s usually a toss–up betweenthe carne asada tampiqueña, a grilled10–ounce rib–eye steak served with oneheese enchilada, guacamole, pico degallo and four grilled shrimp smotheredin chipotle sauce; or the enchiladasdimas, two shrimp and mushroomenchiladas covered in a white wine sauceand served with poblano corn white rice.The latter plate often wins over.)
Since 1997, Paloma Blanca has beensatisfying the appetites of San Antoniansand out–of–towners alike, who arealways in search of great Mexicanrecipes, especially those from theinterior of Mexico. Many of the dishesare from those that Mendoza Olsen’smom used to make growing up in VeraCruz, she says. Among them are theguacamole olmeca, which is preparedat the table; cocktail de camarón, fishand pico de gallo in a tangy red sauce;tacos de la calle, three beef taquitos; andthe huachinango de la casa, a 7–ouncegrilled filet of red snapper.
Richard Peacock Jr. is theestablishment’s owner and president.He is also the brain child behindPaloma Blanca when 11 years ago the43–year–old commercial real estatebroker recruited seven investors toopen a restaurant in what he jokeswas a “momentary lapse of reason.”However, it was not Paloma Blanca,but rather Café Soleil. Shortlyaftertheir first restaurant opened, one of thepartners suggested they open a Mexicanrestaurant when an opportunity arose.
“Ironically, I was against opening aMexican restaurant because I thoughtCafé Soleil was going to be a largeundertaking, and it would be crazy toopen another restaurant two monthslater,” Peacock says. “But I was outvoted,so I tried to make the most of it.”
Eventually, some investors decidedto stay with Café Soleil, while others,including Peacock, chose to remain withPaloma Blanca. Today, he along with asilent partner are the restaurant’s onlyowners. “I don’t regret anything,” hesays. “It’s been an incredible blessingfor us, and we’re so well received. It’ssomething I certainly couldn’t haveforeseen. We’ve seen growth every yearfor the past 11 years.”
Because Peacock’s real estate businessdemands his full–time attention, henamed the 28–year–old Mendoza Olsenas general manager. After coming tolearn English at Universidad NacionalAutonoma de Mexico in 1998, shegot a part–time job as a hostess at therestaurant. After realizing how muchshe enjoyed the food service industry,she worked her way up to becomeGM. Her brother, Rómulo Mendoza, isassistant manager.
“She’s a success story, and she’saccomplished a great deal,” Peacock says.“When I made her general managerwhen she was 23, that was a big leapof faith, but I was confident she wouldsucceed. Nelly and Rómulo are thoseone in a thousand types of people youare lucky enough to have work foryou. They are always professional anddetermined to do things the right way.”
The trio have recently becomebusiness partners and opened Vela WineBar adjacent to Paloma Blanca. The ideafor the wine bar was Mendoza Olsen’sand her brother’s, Peacock says, whenthe space next to the restaurant becameavailable. Initially, he thought aboutrenting the space and remodeling it intoanother private banquet room.
“Nelly and Rómulo suggested makingit into something fun,” he says, addingthat it offers wine, beer, coffee anddesserts. “It’s a good place to go beforeor after a movie.”
Over the years, Paloma Blanca hasexpanded by offering catering servicesfor corporate events and private parties,and there is now a convenient Foodon the Fly drive–through curb servicein which individuals can order fromthe online menu and then call to placetheir order . Two private rooms on–siteare also available for birthday parties,bridal showers or other events. About 70part–time and full–time employees helpensure that things run smoothly behindthe kitchen as well as the dining roomfloor.
“There are so many aspects of therestaurant business that are demanding,and there’s 20 different ways to eitherimpress or disappoint someone,”Peacock says. “I want (Paloma Blanca) tobe a place where our employees make agood living and a place where they enjoyworking. It’s satisfying to know we’reproviding both.”
