Any san antonian can testify that this city loves itsrestaurants. places like mi tierra , blanco café, chester’sand chris madrid’s carry a vibe of the city that is unique.
Take two steps into green and the welcoming san antoniocharm smiles back at you. old black–and–white photosadorn the brick wa lls that house an open grill next toglass–top tables and booths enveloped in the smell ofburgers and fries, and the music of george stra it. thenyou look again at the sign and notice the name – greenvegetarian cuisine.
Mike Behrend, 37, owns and operates SanAntonio’s first and only all–vegetarian, allkosherrestaurant, just off IH–35 at 1017 N.Flores St. In January 2006, he and his mother,Luann Singleton, sold the downtown staple,Lulu’s Café and Bakery – a place they ownedand ran for 15 years – and began work ongetting Green off the ground. Today, Greenhas created for itself an environment of alocal favorite while maintaining its distinctiveapproach.
“A lot of (vegetarian) restaurants will tryto be a health food place or a California–stylevegetarian restaurant but I’m from here,”Behrend says. “I grew up in San Antonio withTexas–style comfort food.”
Behrend, a vegetarian since 2005, makesno attempt to sever his roots and his menuis proof. Although people might expect tofind a list of dishes made with ingredientsthey have never heard of, at Green they willfind favorites, such as pancakes, huevosrancheros, breakfast tacos, and onion ringand fried mushroom appetizers. Theycan also choose vegetarian burgers, hamsandwiches, enchiladas and vegan carneguisada so good that Behrend says youcan “close your eyes and never know thedifference.”
It’s Not Just the VeggieBurgers
Opening Green in a city like San Antoniocan seem risky, but for Behrend the choicewasn’t just business – it was personal. In2005, he made the choice to become avegetarian in what he says was a drasticchange. “I had a revelation about theenvironment, animals and my health ingeneral,” he says. “It was like a moment ofenlightenment.”
Along with changing his eating habits,Behrend, who at the time weighed about300 pounds, began running, swimming andcycling and lost more than 90 pounds. Sincethen he has completed four triathlons, threemarathons, two century bike rides and many5k and 10k road races.
His lifestyle of vegetarianism, conservationand health awareness has helped him shapethe passions behind his restaurant. “Puttingout high–quality food is key, but we alsohave a higher purpose here,” he says. “Even if(guests) don’t convert to vegetarianism, wejust want them to eat healthier foods.”
Along with the food they serve, Greenrecycles its cardboard, uses Windtricity (awind–generated electricity), fair–trade coffee,biodegradable packaging and, according toits Web site, had an energy–efficient, thermalroof barrier installed to reduce energyconsumption.
Square Pegs
Behrend calls Texas a “meat–based” cultureand he is probably right. So where do youfit a proverbial square peg like Green in around hole of burger joints, steakhouses andcountless Mexican restaurants.
“One thing that we’ve done that has beeneffective is that we’ve found our niche,”Behrend says. “Finding a niche has providedus loyal customers.”
Before Green opened, Behrend says, nokosher restaurants in San Antonio wereavailable, so those who practiced kosherguidelines found it difficult to eat out.“Maybe they could drive to Austin once ortwice a month but that’s it,” he says, addingthat they now bring their business to Greenfor birthday parties, baby showers and familydinners.
As a vegetarian, Behrend has to ask a lot ofquestions when he eats at other restaurants,and that is something, he says, mostvegetarians have to do. By opening an allvegetarianand all–kosher eatery, he adds, youdon’t have to ask. Whether you prefer kosherfoods or are a vegan or vegetarian, Behrendhas made a commitment to his customers.
More Than a Restaurateur
At first sight, it is evident Behrend loveswhat he does because he’s not just the owner,he’s the chef. Green is just one facet of awhole lifestyle he has embraced, and themore you talk to him, you can see that hispassions run deep.
“I feel better about what I do here,” he says.Green has a solid place in Behrend’s heartand not just his wallet; it has much more thana goal – it has a purpose. Green is much morethan a restaurant; it’s a full circle campaignfor a better life.
