When times are tough, we unfailingly seek refuge ... often in the depths of a pan of mac and cheese.
Comfort food is a soup can of memory and steam, laughter, and butter. It's our own personal blueprint to what nourishes the soul. For me, comfort is scrambled eggs sided by pinto beans (cooked with salt pork) that I scoop up with hot, flour tortillas. For my best friend, it's Betty Crocker blueberry muffins fresh from the oven with Falfurrias butter.
Whether it's mash or hash, pies or thighs, each of us have foods that are the equivalent of a pair of warm, fuzzy slippers, even those who make their careers in haute cuisine. I asked some of San Antonio's top chefs what they call comfort food — past and present.
Good lessons for any modern chef at home.
Scott Cohen: Executive Chef, Brasserie Pavil
New York style pizza. Bagels with lots of cream cheese. Baked ziti and lasagna. This was the simple, yet very formative comfort food for New York native Scott Cohen.
“I remember sitting down in front of the TV to watch Graham Kerr, the Galloping Gourmet, with a tuna fish and onion sandwich on white bread on a paper plate.”
As executive chef at Brasserie Pavil, Scott transforms his childhood Chicken of the Sea into sophisticated French brasserie classics: coq au vin, braised short ribs, mussels and pommes frites. And of course, cassoulet.
Bruce Auden: Chef/Owner, Biga on the Banks
For Bruce, comfort food is associated with the food, tastes and smells of his childhood in England.
“Slow–cooked stews, Yorkshire pudding, cauliflower and cheese and new potatoes. Then English puddings with the top of the milk and custard,” he remembers. “Now living in Texas I find comfort in different foods. Because of the extreme temperatures, some of those foods of my childhood do not have the same appeal. So a hunk of bread and cheese, fish just simply cooked right out of the water, fruit and vegetables eaten still warm from the tree or plant give me satisfaction and comfort more now than any meal can.”
Josh Cross: Chef/Owner, Oloroso
Josh and his year–old restaurant Oloroso in King William, has taken the Texas fine dining scene by the horns with sheer talent and exuberance. Josh truly loves and appreciates food — from the rarified to down–home, Southern staples.
“My two current favorite comfort foods are fried chicken smothered with honey and tabasco sauce with mashed potatoes, collard greens, mac and cheese and biscuits; and hot dogs (the thinner NY style) covered in chili, onions, cheese, sauerkraut and lots of mustard. As a child my favorite food was my mother’s beef stew with Irish potato bread. That one still makes me happier than anything else.”
Amen, brother.
Damien Watel: Chef/Owner, Vatel Restaurant Group
“The cobbler always has the worst shoes,” says San Antonio restaurant legend Damien Watel, speaking of his less–is–more mentality when it comes to eating at home.
Perhaps it’s because he consistently turns out extraordinary cuisine at his seven European–inspired eateries in San Antonio, such as foie gras, bouillabaisse and escargot; but at home, “the simpler, the better” for Damien.
“Nothing that you have to put together... I enjoy crusty bread, charcuterie, good cheese, wine.”
Sexy and simple and très French. Need we say more?
Steve Wegner: Central Market Cooking School Chef
Meatloaf, Velveeta and Hershey's chocolate were comfort mainstays for this Midwest native. However, after years in the culinary arts, it's impossible for Steve to reverse his trained palate.
"I recently had a craving for Campbell's tomato soup and Velveeta grilled cheese, but found I just couldn't eat it anymore."
Now, Steve updates the comfort foods of his childhood with artisan ingredients.
"French bread and brie for grilled cheese and meatloaf with apple wood smoked bacon on top instead of ketchup."
