Spain seeps into your soul: the exotic aromas of smoked pimenton and saffron, the passionate rat-a-tat of flamenco, those wild black eyes of her people. And of course, the food. Of all the great cuisines of the world, Spanish food is the most visceral. It conveys a sense of place like no other - whether you're eating anchovies with toothpicks at never-ending tapas bars or experiencing the avant-garde molecular gastronomy at El Bulli or Arzak.

It's difficult for Spanish restaurants in America to capture this authenticity. That's why I was delighted to rediscover Las Ramblas at the Hotel Contessa. Under the direction of Executive Chef Brian West, Las Ramblas has evolved into one of the finest examples of modern Spanish cuisine in America.

This is a bold statement. But really, it's true.

Las Ramblas is set on the River Walk level of the stunning Hotel Contessa. The design is reminiscent of Barcelona, with Gaudi-esque curves and spirals, art glass by local designer Gini Garcia and Alhambra-inspired floor tiles. A big advantage for local diners: complimentary valet parking at the Hotel Contessa with dinner at Las Ramblas.

Our dining group started with an assortment of tapas which number about twenty on the menu and are very affordable; most range between $4 and $9. I went straight for the Spanish classics. First up, the Baquerone pintxos (pronounced peen-chos): four plump, beautiful white anchovies wrapped around olives on top of grilled toast smeared with red pepper paste. The flavor of these anchovies are incredible - a salty, unctuous explosion of the sea - in perfect harmony with the grilled bread and sweet red pepper.

We could smell our next tapa before it arrived: shrimp a la plancha. The earthy char on the exterior gives to luscious shrimp flesh, offered with an elusively delicious romesco salsa and smoked sea salt. Just divine. I was already back in Barcelona.

Now we were ready for a little meat and potatoes. Our tapa of Moroccan beef kabobs came to us perfectly rare, veiled with exotic spice and served with a chutney of figs and dates. Crispy Patatas Bravas - another classic Spanish tapa - are coated in sweet smoked paprika and served with crispy leeks and a spicy garlic harissa dipping sauce, a lovely pairing with our Spanish Monastrell wine.

Two more small plates came highly recommended by our waiter: caramelized brussel sprouts with house made pancetta and sage; and warm goat cheese with grilled country bread. The goat chevre is a no-brainer. Served warm and layered with a savory sofrito and toasted almonds - how could it NOT be good. The brussel sprouts, however, are a complete surprise. All at once bitter, sweet, smoky and crunchy ... you want to not like them, but they are undeniably good.

Chef West explained, "I like to take an ingredient that everyone hates and make it delicious."

West, recently named one of the Top 100 Chefs in Texas by Texas Monthly, is an 18-year veteran of the restaurant business. Many San Antonians will remember him from the Café Paladar in Stone Oak, which he owned and which earned top honors in The New York Times as one of the top 500 restaurants in the country.

A native of McAllen and a graduate of Clark High School, West is inspired by all variations of Latin cuisine: The intricacies of Mexican moles, fused with classic Spanish cooking techniques, anchored by regional, local ingredients. "I try to integrate the many cultures of San Antonio in the Las Ramblas menu. This is modern Spanish cuisine in America."

Our plan was to share a couple of the signature large plates, so there was no room to try the salads this time around. But they include intriguing combinations of roasted beets with goat cheese, pistachios and fennel and sangria poached pears with mixed greens, Cabrales blue cheese, candied walnuts and sherry vinaigrette.

Our friendly, knowledgeable waiter made a few large plate suggestions. Do not miss, and I repeat, DO NOT miss Chef West's seared Muscovy duck breast. Thick slices of perfectly medium-rare duck breast is accompanied by a unique gratin of sweet potato, cranberries and goat cheese and sauce of blood orange and molasses. Hands-down one of the finest presentations of duck I've experienced in Texas.

Equally delicious, but more traditional is the Zarzuela La Catalana or Spanish shellfish stew. A generous bowl of shrimp, scallops, clams, smoked mussels and lobster is simmered in a fennel and saffron broth. Light, refreshing and completely aromatic. And like so much of Spanish cuisine, this dish involves all the senses. One of our diners was so taken with the broth, he finished every single drop.

Other signature large plates include: traditional Spanish Paella from the Valencia region consisting of chicken, chorizo, clams, mussels, shrimp, calamari with saffron rice; beef tenderloin wrapped in Serrano jamon with polenta; and Cornish game hen with chorizo bread pudding and caramelized fennel and apple salad.

Chef West loves goat cheese and he even showcases it for dessert. His goat cheesecake with warm cajeta is unlike any cheesecake you will ever try. It's better. Super light, and just slightly piquant the cake is artfully presented with pumpkin-pie spiced cajeta sauce. Not heavy at all and a worthy conclusion to a meal this good.