“The trouble with Italian wines is that they are so complicated,” I recently overheard aman say while ordering his wine at a restaurant; he went ahead and ordered a CalifornianMerlot.
Indeed, Italian wines are often passed over for more readily accessible domestic wines.Logically, Italian wines pair best with Italian food, so why do so many wine drinkers disregardthe obvious and miss out on such a gastronomical union?
Perhaps Italian wines just need a frame of reference. If a Dolcetta d’Alba could talk andsay, “I’m a charming little red wine from Northern Italy with black cherry flavors and softtannins. And by the way, I go really well with pizza,” no doubt, Dolcetto would be on everyone’s‘It’ List.
So here it is – a primer on the most popular Italian red wines. If only everything complicatedwas so delightful to get to know!
To get to know Amarone, the Italian powerhouse of a wine, one must first understandits younger sibling, Valpolicella. Both come from the Valpolicella region near Verona, andare made from the same blend of grapes – primarily Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara.Cherry trees flank the region’s vineyards. Winemakers believe this gives light, everydaydrinkingValpolicella its delightful cherry and almond flavors.
But while grapes for Valpolicella are picked during regular harvest, grapes used for Amaroneare left on the vines longer for extra ripeness, then spread out on shelving for severalmonths before being crushed. This process, known as “appassimento” concentrates sugarand flavor and gives Amarone its opulent character. The name Amarone translates to “big,bitter one” and its aromas and flavors are of bitter chocolate, mocha, dried figs, and earth.
Barbera
The second most widely planted grape in Italy, Barbera, is primarily found in the Albaand Asti districts of Piedmonte. It’s known for high acid and low tannins, which makes it anexceptional food paring wine. Many producers are now using techniques that allow the fullpotential of Barbera to shine through. The result is a lush, dark, full–bodied wine that exudesflavors of dark cherry, blackberry, milk chocolate, clove and smoke.
Barbaresco and Barolo
Roses and violets. Chocolate and figs. Leather and tar. Sipping a Barbaresco or Barolois a study in Italian wine architecture. Highly structured, both wines are made from Nebbiolograpes and take their name from the Barbaresco and Barolo districts in SoutheasternPiedmonte.
Barberesco is considered the Queen of Italian wine. It is an intense, elegant wine thatneeds bottle ageing. The taste of liquid red velvet – with intriguing structure, layers of headyflavor, and integrated firm tannins.
Barolo is King of Italian wine. Powerful and massive, Barolos are one of the most prizedwines in Italy. The flavors in a well–crafted Barolo are of an epic scale: currents, exotic tea,vanilla, cedar and balsam, to name a few.
Brunello
“Brunello,” meaning “little dark one,” is made from a clone of Sangiovese, called SangioveseGrosso. The Brunello di Montalcino district is located in Tuscany, south of bothChianti and Siena. In this hot, dry microclimate, Sangiovese Grosso thrives, producingBrunello that is dark, concentrated, with high acidity and tannins. There is a wide varietyof styles of Brunello di Montalcino: It can be redolent of deep dark berries, cinnamon andchocolate or lighter body with fresh, bright acidity. Brunellos are among the most reveredItalian wines, and the best are extremely rare and expensive.
Chianti
Made primarily from the Sangiovese grape in seven subzones of Tuscany, Chianti hasgotten a bad rap recently – either from Hannibal Lechter’s chilling reference in Silence of theLambs, or a host of mediocre, thin versions. Good Chianti brims with tart cherry, strawberry,savory spice and earthy flavors. And while Sangiovese’s piercing acidity may be too severe by itself, this quality makes Chianti absolutelysublime paired with food, particularly tomato–basedItalian classics. Look for higher quality Chianti Classicoor Chianti Classico Riserva labels.
Primitivo
Primitivo is primarily grown in the region of Puglia– located in the heel of Italy’s southern boot – and isthought to be the exact same grape as American Zinfandel.Like Zinfandel, Primitivo is a big wine with boisterousflavors. Plummy spice, earth, orange, chocolate,and slight herbal notes back up ripe berry fruit. Withsuch a wildly divergent flavor profile, Primitivo screamsfor rustic Italian food.
Super Tuscans
As a backlash against strict Italian DOC blendinglaws, a group of Tuscan winemakers started a revolutionin the 1970’s by experimenting with Bordeaux varietalssuch as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, insteadof Tuscany‘s native Sangiovese. These winemakers wereloud and proud, and openly flouted their new style ofwine, coined “Super Tuscans,” which soon gained cultstatus and continue to command high prices. SuperTuscans abound with complex flavors: blackberry,plum, espresso, vanilla, tar, bittersweet chocolate, andlicorice.
