I have often thought that all wine begins and ends in Bordeaux,France. Not only is it the largest fine wine region in the world,Bordeaux serves as a compass for winemakers around the globe. Noother wine is so rich with history, legend and pedigree.
Compared to Burgundy, France’s other great wine region, Bordeauxis the other side of the French wine psyche. If Burgundy’s appealis the sensuality of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Bordeaux’s famousblends are excruciatingly cerebral. Good Bordeaux is moody,multi–faceted, and supremely complex.
I just returned from a wine tour in Bordeaux which reaffirmedmy appreciation for this highly evolved wine. Everysip begs another….if only to experience howBordeaux unfurls on the tongue. Not many winesare so alive in the bottle, in the glass and on thepalate.
That being said, a basic understanding ofthe region and wine is prerequisite for Bordeauxepiphanies. Pleasure, I assure you, will ensue!
Bordeaux is located in Southwest France andis blessed with an exceptional climate and geography.It sits on 45th parallel where humid springs,hot summers, and winters that rarely bring severefrost provide perfect conditions for grape growing.
The name Bordeaux is derived from “au bordde l’eau,” meaning along the waters. Three majorrivers dominate the area: the large Gironde, andthe smaller but still substantial Dordogne and Garonne.The Atlantic Ocean is just one hour west ofBordeaux. This proximity to great bodies of wateris essential to Bordeaux’s distinctive terroir.
The Grapes
Almost all Bordeaux wines are blends. The noble five grapesused in red Bordeaux are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and CabernetFranc, with help from two blending grapes – Malbec and Petit Verdot.White Bordeaux wines are primarily blends of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillonand Muscadelle.
Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855
For the Exposition Universelle de Paris of 1855, Emperor NapoleonIII requested a classification system for France’s best Bordeaux.Wine brokers ranked these wines according to trading price. Thetop ranked wines were named Grand Crus Classés (Great ClassifiedGrowths), which was further ordered from 1st to 5th Growths. Thisclassification system remains to this day.
The Sub Regions and Appellations
Bordeaux is divided into sub regions. Within these sub regionsare appellations – typically the name you will see on the bottle. Sometimesred Bordeaux is described as “Right Bank” or ‘Left Bank”, referringto its juxtaposition to the Dordogne and Garonne Rivers and itsvarietal composition. Right Bank Bordeaux is predominantly composedof the Merlot grape, while Left Bank wines are driven by CabernetSauvignon.
The Médoc sub region, considered Left Bank, is composed of sixsmaller appellations: Margaux, St. Julien, Pauillac, and St. Estèpheare the most important and highly valued. Listrac and Moulis delivergood value but are not as prestigious as the former.
The Graves sub region is south of the Medoc, and is famous for itsgravelly soil (hence the name Graves). Its largest appellation is calledPessac–Léognan, and the most famous château from this area is thefirst growth Haut–Brion which I toured during my visit to Bordeaux.I had the privilege of tasting the 2004 Haut–Brion and La MissionHaut–Brion. Haunting, redolent of black current, smoke, cigar box,sandalwood, coffee, and hints of chocolate, these wines were monumentaland nothing less than extraordinary.
On to Right Bank Bordeaux, which consists ofits jewel appellations: St. Émilion and Pomerol; aswell as Canon–Fronsac, an up–and–coming star. Incontrast to the grandiosity of the Medoc, the RightBank is quaint and pastoral, reflecting an unpretentiousnessof the people and land. This area is knownfor limestone and clay soils and a high percentage ofMerlot and Cabernet Franc used in the blends.
Saint–Émilion is a charming medieval villagecarved out of limestone that is dedicated almostentirely to wine. St. Émilion wines are iconic amongBordeaux, perhaps because of the appellation’sunique soil composition. St. Émilions are deep purpleand laden with smoke, plumy fruit, chocolate,espresso roast, blackberry, currant, and graphitearomas and flavors. It is a singularly powerful wine,yet somehow extremely benevolent and approachable.
If you sneeze while driving through Pomerol, anotherRight Bank appellation just northwest of St.Émilion, you may miss it entirely – it is that small.However, one of the most expensive and sought after Bordeaux inthe world – Château Pétrus – is a Pomerol. Described as “an iron fistin a velvet glove,” Pomerols dazzle the senses: infinitely complex withheady perfumes and flavors of black cherries, vanilla, truffles, figs,charcoal, and exotic tea. On the palate, Pomerols are lush and silky –truly paradise in a Bordeaux bottle.
Lastly, the Entre Deux Mers sub–region is an area of pretty farmlandand vineyards between the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers. Thisarea produces three quarters of all the red wine sold as Bordeaux orBordeaux Supérieur. A number of young winemakers are revitalizingthe Entre Deux Mers, producing some very substantial wines at agood price, especially in the appellation of Graves de Vayres.
Felicia’s Bordeaux Picks:
- Château Goudichaud Rouge, Graves de Vayres (approx. $15)
- Château Grand Corbin Grand Cru St. Émilion Grand Cru (approx. $58)
- Château des Fougeres “La Raison” Pessac–Léognan (approx. $79) All above wines can be found or special ordered from Central Market, Sun Harvest (281 or Callaghan), and Cost Co Liquors.
All above wines can be found or special ordered from CentralMarket, Sun Harvest (281 or Callaghan), and Cost Co Liquors.
